How to change your engine oil

Before you start

Fresh oil lubricates moving parts, carries heat away from the engine and suspends contaminants until the filter catches them. Wrong oil, a seized drain plug or a car on a jack alone can turn a cheap DIY job into an expensive recovery — so start with the handbook, not a generic “all cars take 5W-30” tip from a forum.

What you’ll need

• Correct oil grade and quantity from the handbook
• New oil filter (and housing O-rings if cartridge type)
• Sump-plug washer / crush washer
• Socket/spanner for sump plug and filter tool or strap wrench
• Oil drain pan, funnel, gloves, rags
• Axle stands or ramps (never a jack alone)
• Torque wrench if the handbook quotes a figure

Watch a good how-to

Popular walkthroughs that match this job. Watch for technique — always follow your handbook for torque figures, jacking points and fluids.

Step-by-step guide

1. 1

   Park on level ground, switch off and let the engine cool enough to work safely — warm oil drains faster, but scalding oil and exhaust parts will burn you.

2. 2

   Confirm the oil specification (viscosity plus ACEA/API/OEM approval), sump capacity, filter part number and washer type in the handbook or a trusted VIN-based lookup.

3. 3

   Raise and support the car only with axle stands or drive-on ramps. Chock wheels. Never crawl under a car held by a jack.

4. 4

   Place the drain pan, remove the sump plug and drain fully. Replace the crush washer — reused washers are a common leak.

5. 5

   Remove the old filter. For spin-ons, smear a film of clean oil on the new gasket and hand-tighten plus a little more (do not crush it). For cartridges, renew O-rings and follow the housing torque.

6. 6

   Refit the sump plug to the specified torque. Add most of the oil through the filler, wait a few minutes, then check the dipstick (or electronic level procedure).

7. 7

   Start briefly, check for leaks underneath, switch off, recheck level after settling and top up gradually to the MAX mark — never overfill.

8. 8

   Reset the oil service light if your car has one. Take used oil and the old filter to a council tip or participating motor factor — pouring it down a drain is illegal.

Pro tips

• Buy a litre more than the stated capacity so you can top up correctly after the filter fills.
• Ramps are often safer and freer than a trolley jack for oil changes if the car fits them.
• If the sump plug is rounded or over-tight, stop — forcing it can crack the sump.
• Diesel cars that only do short trips may need earlier changes than the “long life” sticker suggests.

FAQs